What a hem should actually do

In the City, a single break remains the most civilised answer. Enough cloth to sit when you sit; not so much that the hem eats the shoe. We pin this on the body, in the shoes you will actually wear — not in socks, not in trainers bought for the appointment.

Chinos can take a cleaner, slightly shorter line. Jeans, if they are selvedge, should keep the original hem wherever the length allows. That factory chain-stitch is a finish, not a suggestion.

If you are unsure, we will show you three pins. You will know in ten seconds.